Italy produces an incredibly diverse range of wines and styles of wine. Varietals grown in one region can taste very different when planted in neighbouring areas. Of course this will be the result of many factors: clonal selection, terroir, as well as vinification techniques, the use of oak and the length of the ageing process. A good example is the Sangiovese grape. Most people associate Sangiovese with Tuscany (home to Chianti). Tuscany is adjacent to the Romagna, and a portion of present-day Romagna was actually Tuscan until boundaries were re-drawn by Mussolini less than a century ago.
Sangiovese has been grown in the Romagna for centuries and though the somewhat warmer climate produces something rather different from the variety than what it usually produces in Tuscany, the resulting wines can be terrific in their own style, especially when their exuberant fruitiness is turned in a more serious direction by time and aeration in oak barrels. Whereas oak can imperil the delicate balance of leaner Sangiovese from Tuscany, it seems to lend focus and coherence to the riper, richer, more overt fruit that this vine variety produces in the Romagna’s warmer climate.
On offer this week is the 2012 Celli Sangiovese di Romagna La Grillaie Riserva. This is a textbook example of how Sangiovese performs in the vineyards surrounding Bertinoro. Ripe and rich with delicious chewy tannin on the long clean finish. While drinkable and enjoyable now, the tannins suggest that this is a good candidate for further bottle ageing.
The 2012 Celli Sangiovese di Romagna La Grillaie Riserva is available for immediate delivery. There are 23 cases available. This is another great candidate for the summer BBQ – think veal chop! To order, please e-mail or call 416-463-4677