Giacomo Fenocchio: A Radical Traditionalist
One of the advantages of working in the wine business is meeting remarkable people from around the world who eventually become close friends. One such person is Claudio Fenocchio, a true gentleman farmer, passionate about his land, his wine and his family.
Wines Produced by Giacomo Fenocchio
When consumers were willing to cellar their wines and wait for the optimal time to drink this was not a problem. However, modern consumers, particularly those in North America, have more immediate desires. They either don’t or can’t cellar their wines. As a consequence, in the early 1990s a number of producers began to experiment with shorter macerations, often in roto-fermenters, and aging in new oak barrels to try to increase extraction yet tame the tannins and produce a wine that is sweeter, denser and easier to enjoy in its youth. These so-called modernists became the darlings of wine journalists, particularly Robert Parker, but they have in many ways lost touch with the roots of their region. In contrast, traditionalists, like Fenocchio continue to produce their Barolos with long macerations and neutral wood aging, processes which maintain the delicate nature of the grape and unique aspects of the terroir.