Giacomo Fenocchio: A Radical Traditionalist One of the advantages of working in the wine business is meeting remarkable people from around the world who eventually become close friends. One such person is Claudio Fenocchio, a true gentleman farmer, passionate about his land, his wine and his family. This post will look at the history of the estate, wines produced and some of the great vineyard holdings. History The Fenocchio family has been making wine in Monforte since 1864. But it is in the seventies, with Claudio’s father Giacomo, that the winery started its ascension to great winemaking. Today, Claudio runs the operation aided by his wife Nicoleta and his two daughters who are attending the Alba School of Enology.   Giacomo Fenocchio‘s philosophy is one of tradition, meticulous work in the vineyard and extended macerations in large barrels. The resulting wines are stunning and exceptional, showing the elegant and delicate nature of the Nebbiolo grape. Although not yet certified, Claudio considers his 14 hectares of vines organic and participates in the European project of sustainability. Let’s look at some of his more popular bottlings. Wines Produced by Giacomo Fenocchio Arneis: Even though Moscato (Moscato d’Asti) and Cortese (Gavi) were always the more recognizable Piemontese white grapes, increased demand for white wine in the eighties led to the resurgence of Arneis. Traditionally used to soften Nebbiolo, Arneis is mostly found in Roero and Langhe, regions separated by the Tanaro river. Arneis Roero distinguishes itself by its sandy soils, to the point of sometimes being called “wine made on the beach”. The appellation Arneis Roero was granted DOC in early 1989 and promoted to DOCG in late 2004, while it remains a DOC in the Langhe. This aromatic and perfumed varietal shows best when left unoaked, giving way to a fresh nose and palate of flowers and herbs. A slightly bitter finish is also typical.   Claudio Fenocchio produces two styles, Arneis Roero DOCG, in the typical fresh style, and a skin contact orange wine, Anima Arancio (Orange Soul). The more traditional Arneis (12 000 btls/yr) is gently pressed and left on its lees for 24-36 hours. The juice is then separated and left to ferment in stainless steel tanks. The resulting wine is light hay coloured with green hues and is fragrant, soft and complex. Loaded with aromas of broom flower, chamomile and fresh fruit, the finish is pleasantly tangy and persistent.   Inspired by his long macerations of Nebbiolo and the recent popularity of orange wines, Claudio decided to produce Anima Arancio (1000 btls/yr) a few years back. We had the chance to try it at his house when a group of us visited in 2016. The same grapes as the DOCG wine are used, but the juice ferments spontaneously with ambient yeast and is left to macerate on its skins for 30 days in stainless steel. The extra-long fermentation time brings a rich orange colour with amber notes to the wine, but it remains clear and clean. There is …

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